Leopard geckos are widely considered one of the best entry-level reptiles, and it’s a well-earned reputation – they’re hardy, don’t need especially elaborate setups compared to many reptiles, and have calm, manageable temperaments. That said, “beginner-friendly” still means there are specific needs to get right.
Enclosure size and setup
A single adult leopard gecko needs a minimum floor space of around 90x45cm, though bigger is always better. Unlike many reptiles, leopard geckos don’t require UVB lighting to survive, though many keepers now provide low-level UVB anyway as good practice, since some benefit has been observed even in crepuscular species. A secure lid is essential, along with several hides – at least one on the warm side, one on the cool side, and a humid hide to help with shedding.
Heating and temperature gradient
Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient, not a single uniform temperature – a warm side (with an under-tank heat mat or heat lamp, controlled by a thermostat) and a cooler side, so the gecko can move between them to regulate its own body temperature. A thermostat is non-negotiable; heating equipment without one is a genuine fire and injury risk.
Diet
Leopard geckos are insectivores – crickets, mealworms, and waxworms (as an occasional treat, not a staple, since they’re high in fat) form the core diet, ideally gut-loaded and dusted with calcium powder. A shallow dish of fresh water should always be available.
Handling
Leopard geckos generally tolerate gentle handling well once settled in, but should be allowed to acclimatise to a new home for at least a week before regular handling begins. Always support the body rather than gripping the tail – like many geckos, they can drop their tail if they feel threatened.
Buying your first leopard gecko
Ask about the gecko’s age, feeding history, and whether it’s captive bred. You can browse leopard geckos and other reptiles for sale in Ireland on The Aviary Hub.
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